Critical Mass – Old school
- August
- 24
There’s a worldwide cycling movement called Critical Mass that regularly takes to the streets and upsets drivers and pedestrians in the name of cycling advocacy. (Perhaps you can tell from my tone that I’m not terribly thrilled with the movement.) The name, however, derives from a transportation phenomena that occurred in the once-bike-filled-streets of Beijing.
Bikes vastly outnumbered cars in the old days, when fewer than 70,000 vehicles prowled the streets and quite literally millions of bikes were on the road. (Current estimates put the number of cars in Beijing at more than three million cars.) Traffic lights weren’t as numerous or as well timed as they are now, so a swarm of bikes would come to an intersection where cars had the green and sort of bunch up until there were so many bikes in the same spot that the group started to move together en masse, and then push forward blocking the cars and moving across the intersection.
Biking in Beijing still works mostly the same, though there are vastly fewer bikes these days. That’s not to say there aren’t a lot of bikes. There are tons, and tons, and tons of bikes. I’ve seen bikes hauling everything you can imagine out there. Mattresses, giant pieces of metal, lumber, people, food (eggs were my favorite), electronics and much more. There are old bikes, older bikes, and really old bikes. Some have platforms on the back, some carry things with bungee cords, some are just so covered with things it’s impossible how to tell how the things are attached, it looks like it’s just plain magnetic.
The city though can accommodate the bikes because it’s built around them. Unlike any city I’ve visited, bikes are an integral part of the community, in a way that even Amsterdam can’t match. The roads have massive bike lanes, every single one. The main bridges have bike crossings, the ring roads have arteries, the alleys have bike paths. There is nowhere in the city that’s not accessible and the bike is not just a personal transportation device it’s also a moving van, delivery truck and service vehicle.
While Beijing has recently become one of the most car-filled cities on earth, it’s also one of the most bike friendly ones.
Which brings me to riding in Beijing. It’s pretty fair to say that from a purely movement point-of-view (discounting the scenery or the attractions) riding in Beijing has been a tremendous pleasure because of the issue of critical mass. There are two ways to ride a bike in Beijing: cautiously, and the way everyone actually rides. It’s perfectly acceptable to stop at major intersections and wait for the green light. It’s also perfectly acceptable to ride across to the median, hang out for a second and then push forward across the road, even if there is traffic coming.
That’s because Beijing traffic operates under one simple rule: do not hit anyone. Most of my pedestrian friends have remarked that it seems that cars have the right of way, this is simply not the case. Everyone has the right of way, and so at an intersection crossing is a delicate balance of vehicles going around each other, without violating their natural rules of order. Cars and trucks do have a bit of a priority, they’re bigger and larger after all, but when enough pedestrians or cyclists hit the intersection, even vehicular traffic yields.
It’s really a wonderful system, one that allows massive amounts of vehicles to coexist. It’s also, if you’re adventurous something that allows you to turn cycling in Beijing into one big amusement park.
While I love the bucolic back roads and suburban corridors of the lower Hudson, and while I make trips to ride in idyllic locals, urban riding is my favorite. If you’ve ever watched video of bike messengers weaving in and out of traffic, running stop lights, weaving around trucks that cut them off, picking a line and flow dictated by the streets—that’s my favorite kind of ride. But it’s not one that I get to have often, as I’m a rule-abiding rider.
But here in Beijing, there are no rules for bikes. Want to ride 3 MPH blocking a row of busses? Okay. Want to cut across an eight-lane road before the light changes. Go ahead. Weave around bikes? How else can you avoid someone who is pulling a mattress behind them? There’s not really anything to stop you, and in fact it’s the only way to get anywhere. (New rule of cycling: when a guy pulling a cart full of eggs crosses the street, it’s likely safe to do so as well.)
In the four days of riding I’ve done here I haven’t seen a single bike-vs-vehicle or bike-vs-pedestrian accident because everyone takes it on themselves to not only determine their right of way but to be sure that their right-of-way doesn’t conflict with someone else’s. As a result, screaming cars come to a stop (without a honk) when a group of walkers pass by. Bikes flow around cars when they cut off a lane and walkers pause before crossing at a walkway. It is perhaps the most ideal way for vehicles to interact, with every road user having their own place in the overall scheme.
For the confident rider, it’s the most enjoyable type of ride imaginable, on that combines the skills of cyclocross and mountain biking with the smoothness of urban pavement. And Beijing in miles upon miles of wide-bike-lane-meets-sudden narrowing choke point, it’s masses of people creating their own critical masses, and it’s a heck of a lot of fun.
Now I just have to figure out how to make it an Olympic sport.
LINKS
Photos of riding in Beijing on the Rockland Bicycling Club flickr site.
Photos of Beijing in my personal flickr site.





















